Add shopper accounts, reviews, tracking, and seed_demo (#10)

## Summary
- Closes #9. Port shop-gated buyer accounts (register/login/profile, password reset, order history), purchase-gated reviews, and Stripe customer ids. Cards stay on Stripe.
- Slim public contact form to email + interest + message. Shipping tracking status, scan events, paste-in numbers, and EasyPost webhook when FEATURE_SHIPPING is on.
- Add template-neutral `seed_demo` (generic SKUs, demo shoppers, guest orders, tracking stubs). Prod refused. `--reset` deletes tagged demo rows after invoices.

## Test plan
- [ ] `cd site && uv run python manage.py test` (173 tests passed locally)
- [ ] Shop on: `/account/register`, login, profile, password reset, claim guest orders by email
- [ ] Shop off: `/account/` URLs absent; Sign in / Account links hidden
- [ ] Checkout as logged-in buyer stores `Order.user` and Stripe customer id; product review only after paid purchase
- [ ] Shipping on: portal paste-in tracking + EasyPost webhook updates status; shipping off: orders still work without tracking UI
- [ ] `seed_demo` refused in prod; `--reset` rebuilds tagged catalog/shoppers without deleting staff invoices

Reviewed-on: #10

site/accounts/urls.py

@@ -1,12 +1,14 @@
 from django.contrib.auth import views as auth_views
 from django.urls import path
 
+from accounts.views import PortalLoginView
+
 app_name = "accounts"
 
 urlpatterns = [
     path(
         "login/",
-        auth_views.LoginView.as_view(template_name="accounts/login.html"),
+        PortalLoginView.as_view(),
         name="login",
     ),
     path(